Apparatus for waving hair



March 5, 1940. R. LuDovlcl APPARATUS EOR WAVING HAIR Filed 00.13. l, 193.7

Patented Maes, 1940 Unirse stares g rarest ortica This invention relatesto the waving of hair upon the human head, and particularly, to improvements in apparatus for the production of so-called permanent waves in Croquignole o fashion.

Heretofore, in the practice' of Croquignole waving, it has been customary todivide the hair into at strands andI to secure each strand of hair adjacent the scalp by means of a clamp adapted l to firmly grip the hair, and thereafter to wind the hair from the ends on a curler rod, subjectingY the strand to tension from the point where it is gripped by the clamp. rlhe clamp is usually provided with a locking` or clutch device for holding the curling rod in a tightened position, whereby the tension is maintained after the hair is wound and while it is moistened with a suitable solution, wrapped and subjected to heat to bake the curlv therein. In order to avoid pulling the hair at the roots and causing discomfort tothe subject, it has been necessary to employ a clamp which will grip the hair firmly and tightly. v

It is a well known fact that in order to impart so-called permanency to the waved hair, it is necessary that the hair must be wound tightly ony the curler with all portions of the strand placed under tension, for, if any portion of the strand of hair should not be under tension, it will notV be effectively and permanently waved. It is important, therefore, that the tension l applied to the strand of hair should be uniform throughout the entire stra-nd, and this uniformity of tension should also be applied to adjacent strands in or,-v

der-to produce uniform and satisfactory waves.

In the Croquignole method heretofore used, the devices availahle therefor have been unsatisfactory, primarily because of the impossibility of the application of substantially uniform tension to 40 the hair as the same is being wound. The operator had no means for gauging the tensionl to which the 'hair is subjected, with the result that the strand of hair is either over-wound, thereby causingl a weakening of the hair, or under-wound,

resulting in a wave which would `not withstand shampooing and would, therefore, lose its wavy eifect after short time.

l It is the main object of the present invention to provide a simple and effective apparatus for waving hair, in which the disadvantages of previous practices are avoided. By employing my present invention, it is possible to have all portions of the strand of hair wound under substantially uniform tension upon the curling pin,

which tension does not depend merely upon the guesswork or skill of the operator, and which is v applied as the hair is wound at a substantially uniform rate, instead of after the windingv is completed, by vvgiving-to the curling pin a Lnal turn as in th-e practioeheretofore followed.

Another object of the invention is the provision of a simple device, permitting the applica-A tion of uniform tension automatically as the hair is being wound, the tension 'being governed by means associated with these devices, so that the Ll() same is applied substantially automatically and is, therefore, independent of the operators judgment. e. e, t

A further object of ,the invention is the provision of simple andeffective apparatus to facili- 15 tate' the winding of a strand of hair in Croquignole fashion under-substantially uniform i tension, without exerting any pull whatsoever on the hair at the roots, thereby eliminating any discomfort to the subject and preventing injury 20 to the scalp. i

A still further objectof this invention is to provide novel and improved devices for carrying out my improved procedure, which devices may be simple in construction, assembly and opera- 25 tion, which may be constructed along lines convvenient for lowcost manufacture,l and which will, vat the same time, be highly efficient for carrying out the purposes for which `they are designed.

With the foregoing and other objects in View, l3'()y which will appear vas the'description proceeds, the invention consists in certain novel features of construction, arrangement and combination of parts hereinafter more fully described, illustrated in the accompanying drawing, and par- 35 ticularly pointed out in the appended claims, it` being understood that various changes inthe form, proportion, size and minor details of the structure may be made without departing from the spirit or sacrificing any of the advantages of 40 the invention. f

For the purposeof facilitating an understanding of my invention, I have illustrated in thel accompanying drawing preferred embodiments thereof, from an inspection of which, when con- 45 sidered in connection with the following description, my invention, its mode of construction, assembly and operation, and many of its advantages should be readily understood and appreciated. l 50 Referring to the drawing in which the sameA lcharacters of reference are-,employed to indicate corresponding or similar parts throughout the several figures of the drawing: y

Fig. 1 is an elevation, showing the first stepu55 in winding the hair upon the winding or curling P111;

Fig. 2 shows the application ofthe tension device to the hair, and the attachment of the winding pin to the tension device preparatory to the completion of the winding of the hair upon the winding pin, two positions of the tension device being illustrated;

Fig. 3 is an elevation, showing the completion of the wind, with the tension device disposed adjacent to the scalp;

Fig. 4 is a sectional view, illustrating the final position of the winding means with respect to the scalp;

Fig. 5 is a View in perspective of the shields applied to the iiat strand of hair before the winding operation is begun;

Fig. 6 is a view in perspective, illustrating the preferred form of apparatus for practicing the invention.

In carrying out my invention, the hair on the scalp is first divided into a plurality of strands I 0, each of whichl is separately treated in the manner to be hereinafter described. The strand I0, after the same has been blocked off on the scalp, is drawn through a slit II formed in a shield I2, which shield may be constructed from a layer of flannel or felt I 3, to the outer` face of which may be secured a layer I 1I. of rubber, asbestos or other suitable material, the object of which is to prevent transrnisison of heat to th scalp. s

In order to further protect the scalp, there may also be provided a shield I5 constructed from a sheet of insulating material lli, to the inner face of which may be stitched a layer of felt I1 by means of the stitching I8, such shield having a slot I9 arranged longitudinally thereof, said slot being open at one end, as shown in Fig. 5, through which open end the strand of hair I0 `may be received.

The winding pin or roller 20 on which the lock of hair is adapted to be wound, is similar to winding pins heretofore used in producing the Croquignole wave and comprises two substantially cylindrical ends 2| and 22, and with the body of the pin between these ends gradually tapering towards the middle portion which is the smallest diameter of the pin, so that the thicker portion of the lock of hair is accommodated on the reduced diameter of the pin, whereas the sides of the lock of hair are wound on the portions of increased diameter.

The rod 29 is provided with a clip 23 pivotally secured thereto at 2d, which clip is adapted to be `placed against the free end of the lock of hair, as shown in Fig. l, to hold it until a few turns are rolled from the ends of the hair, after which the hair will be rmly secured to the rod. 'Ihe curling rod 2G is provided with a knurled head 25 and a circumferential groove between said knurled head 25 and cylindrical portion 2 I at one end of the rod, and a recess 21 in the other end of the rod. Mounted within said recess 21 is a stud 28, said stud being secured for rotary movement within said recess by means of the pins 29, and is provided with the means 3l) for cooperating with the serrated surface 3| of the inner wall of the recess for permitting rotation of the rod 29 in one direction, but preventing rotation thereof in the opposite direction. That portion of the stud 28 extending beyond the recess 21 is provided with a squared portion 32 for a purpose to be presently more fully described.

After the strand of hair has been partially v of the arrn 31.

wound on the rod 20, the next step, as indicated in Fig. 2 (in solid lines) is to engage the rod 20 within my improved tension device, as shown in Fig. 2 (in dotted lines). My improved tension device includes a pair of frame members 33 and 34 pivotally secured to each other at 35, whereby said frame members are adapted for swinging movement towards each other. The frame meinber 33 comprises a pair of side arms 3B and 31, to the outer ends of which is secured a connecting rod 38, upon which rod may be iixedly secured a sleeve or casing 39, preferably of rubber, although any suitable material adapted to aifcrd a degree `of friction may be employed. This casing 39 is arranged on the rod 38 so as to be non-rotatable thereon. 'Ihe upper surfaces cr edges of the arms 36 and 31 are curved. to produce the cam surfaces 4D, for a purpose to be presently more fully described. The framey ."icomprises a pair of side arms 4| and 42, to the outer ends of which is rigidly secured a connecting rod 43, upon which is fixedly secured a sleeve or casing 4B, preferably of rubber, although any suitable material adapted to afford a degree of friction may be employed. The arms 36 and Si! are provided with cut-out portions 45 and IIB, which portions will form a substantially square opening when the tensioning device is movedto closed position, as shown in dotted lines of Fig. 2 of the drawing. Similarly, the arms 31 and i2 are provided with the cut-out portions 41 and d8, which will form a substantially circular opening when the tensioning device is moved to the closed position, as shown in Fig. 2 in dotted lines. In these openings is adapted to be disposed respectively, the squared end 32 of the curling rod 2d and the reduced portion 26 of the opposite end of said curling rod.

Secured to the arm 4I is a stud 49, to which is pivotally secured one end of a wire spring 50, the other end of said spring being provided with a hook portion 5I, which is adapted to engage over the cam surface 49 provided on the arm 36, to exert tension thereon for bringing about the desii-ed contacting engagement between the members 39 and Ml for pressing the strand of hair I9 therebetween. Similarly, the arm 42 has a stud 52 seciued thereto, to which is pivotally secured ene end of a wire spring 53, the other end ci which spring is provided with a hook portion 5&- adapted to engage the cam surface 40 The spring members 50 and 53 are of suiicient strength and resiliency to give the desired gripping action to the members 39 and 14, the friction surfaces of the members 39 and t5 bearing against each other when the tensicning device is in the position shown in Fig. 2 in dotted lines.

The curling rod 2l) is provided adjacent the knurled portion 25 with a squared extension 55, which is adapted for engagement within a recess 51 of a hand tool 56, the latter being effective for facilitating the rotating of ythe curling rod when the hair is being wound thereon.

The operation oi' my improved apparatus in practicing the procedure disclosed herein may be described as follows: The hair on the scalp is rst divided into a plurality of strands, and the rst step in treating each of said strands is to apply thereto the shield I2 by drawing the strand through the slit H and then moving the shield along the strand until it rests against the head of the subject. If desired to insure still further protection against the further transmission of heat to the scalp, a shield I5 may also be ap- 13'9 and All'. Vthe'hairby these surfaces causes the hair, which plied, whichshield it willV bel noted, willbe d-isposed against the rst shield I2 as shown more clearly in the drawing'. The next step is to apply the cnring rod 2D to the free ends of the strand of hair, which is done fby twisting the end'- of the strand of-hair one' or more times around .the middle portion of the curling rod while the clip 2'3 is swung out, andk then this clip is swung back to hold the: hair which rhas been.applied` to' theA curling rodyThe curling rod may be given several turns now Without exerting much pull on the strand, so asA to insure that the hair is firmly secured to and well started on the`A curling rcd,and as no pull isr exerted during this initial winding, it will be apparent that the same will canse no discomfort to the subject.

" The next' step is tov apply the) tensioningv device comprising the frames 33' and 34 to the` curling rod with the strand of hair partially wound theree on. This is' done by' arrangingthe reduced portionY 2510i one end`V of the curling rod= in the cutout portion` of the side arm' 42 and the squared portion 32* oi theV opposite end of the curling rod inA the cut-out 186 of the side arm M'. The frame members 33 3ft are now swung towards each other so as to securely lock the ends' of the curlingA rod in the openings formed by the cut-outs 'fida-Wand fri-dil", in whichposition these frame members may be' held by the operator until the spring members 5t and 53 are swung about their pivots in clockwise direction, so that' their respectivehook'portions 5l and 54 will engage over the cam surfaces td of the side arms 36 and 31 to' ser'nne'ly,lockA the tensioning device in fully operative position. which position is indicated in dotted' lines in Fig. 2.

The said spring members 5d and 53, asV already stated, are constructed so' that when move'dto their fully operative position, they will cause the 'members 39 and 44 to be tightly pressed against each other' and against the strand of hairdisposed therebetween. The curling rod 'it is then rotated to wind the hair thereon, and tension is automatically applied tothe hair from the free ends' as it passes between the friction surfaces The resistance to the movement of is' wound' upon the curling rod, to be drawn ltaut and to be placed under tension. Meanwhile no tension is maintained between the scalp and the point where the strand of hair is gripped between the members 39 and 44. As the curling pin is rotated, the' tensioning device, with the winding pin secured therein, moves towards the scalpv until it reaches the position indicated in Fig. 3, Where it rests upon cr against the shields i2 and Thecurling rod is prevented' from rotating in the reverse direction by engagement of the pawls Y3e' with the ratchet teeth 3| provided in the recessY 2l at one end of the curling rod. In the nal position of the tensioning device resting on the protectors l2 and l5, vthe strand of hair is wound tightly on the curling rod '2t and is under tension from the free ends, the tension being regulatedY by the pressure of the friction surfaces 39 and de against the hair, but no tension isapplied to the strand of hair in the direction of the scalp, and the hair is not subjected, therefore, to any pull at the scalp either during the' winding or when the winding has been completed.

I have found from actual experiment, that the tensioning device'will not operate efficiently un-l less-the' friction members 39 and 44 are mounted so' as not to be rotatable during the winding op# eration. In other words, the drag or holding action on the hair by said friction surfaces 39 and il must be due to the friction between the two surfaces, and said friction must be of a high degree, which is not possible when said members l 39 and 4i!- are capable of rotary movementrelative to each other. The resistance of the friction surfaces 3S and All to the passage of the hair therebetween while the same is being 'wound on the curling rod, will determine the degree of tension thereby given tothe wound strand of hair. Thus, this degree of tension will depend a great deal upon thespring members 5ty andA 53A. However, when once adjusted, the tension provided with. be automatically applied to the hair and willbe substantially uniform for all portions of the strand as well asior adjacent strands wound with the same tensioning devices.y

With the completion of the winding of the sev-` eral strands ofv hair on the scalp, said wound strands can be moistened with a sui-table hair treating solution, wrapped in theusual pads and then heat applied tothe wound strands by means of the usual heating devices commonly employed in Croquignole waving. These ordinarily consist oi arcuate members containing electricheating elements with suitable insulating handles, and resilient means to hold the arcuate members in contact with the wrapped strands of hair. As the kheating devices are` well known in the art and form no part ot the present invention, the same are not illustrated in the accompanying drawing. I

y It will be understood that in accordance with the 'usual practice, when the heating is completed, the heaters and wrappers are removed and the strands of hair are separated fromfthe curling rods, after which `the hair may be washed and otherwise treated to complete the wave.

It will be noted, however, that with'rny iinproved., tensioning device,the same may be readwise direction, whereby the said device may be readily opened up and removed from the curling rod and the wound strand of hair.

It will be apparent from what has been de-y scribed, that my improved procedure and apparatus' permits the application of uniformtension tothe entirestrand of hair while, at'the same time, avoidingv any p-ulling of the hair'at the scalp either during the winding operation or while tnenair is being baked It win also be noted that my improved apparatus is much sirnplerin construction and operation, and may be more easily applied than devices of this character heretofore employed.

It is believed that my invention, its inode of construction and assembly, and many of its 'advantages should be' readily understood from the foregoing without further description, and it should also be manifest that while preferred embodiments of the invention have 'been shown and described for illustrative purposes, the structural details are nevertheless capable of wide variation within the purview of my invention as dei-ined in the appended claims.

vet"

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters to receive and revolvably hold said winding element, and having means thereon for compressing the strand of hair throughout its entire Width whereby tension will be placed on the hair as it is drawn by said winding element through said compression device, said compression device including cooperating non-rotatable friction members between which the strand of hair is drawn by said winding pin.

. 2. A hair waving device, including a winding element on which a strand of hair is adapted to be wound and a compression device adapted to be applied to the hair between said winding element and the scalp and including a frame adapted to receive and revolvably hold said winding element, and having means thereon for compressing the strand of hair throughout its entire width whereby tension will be placed on ythe hair as it is drawn by said winding element through said compression device, said compression device including cooperating non-rotatable friction members between which the strand of hair is drawn by said winding pin, said friction members being arranged for pivotal movement relative to each other for permitting the strand of hair to be placed therebetween.

3. A hair waving device, including a winding element on which a strand of hair is adapted to be wound and a compression device adapted to be applied to the hair between said winding element and the scalp and including a frame adapted to receive and revolvably hold said winding element, and having means thereon for compressing the strand of hair throughout its entire width whereby tension will be placed on the hair as it is drawn by said winding element through said compression device, said compression device including cooperating non-rotatable friction members between which the strand of hair is drawn by said winding pin, and means for locking said members in operative position, in which position they will be incapable of movement relative to each other.

4. A hair waving device including a winding element on which a strand of hair is adapted to be wound and a compression device adapted to be applied to the hair between said winding element and the scalp and including a frame adapted to receive and revolvably hold said winding element, and having means thereon for compressing the strand of hair throughout its entire width whereby tension will be placed on the hair as it is drawn by said winding element through said compression device, said compression device including cooperating non-rotatable friction members between which the-strand of hair is drawn by said winding pin, and resilient means for locking said members in operative position.

5. In an apparatus for waving hair on the human head, a compression device including a frame, a winding element adapted to be mounted therein, means associated with said Winding element permitting rotation of the same in the frame only in one direction, and means on the frame adapted to continuously compress the strand of hair as it is drawn therethrough by said winding element, said compression device including a pair of cooperating non-rotatable friction members held against movement relative to each other.

6. In an apparatus for waving hair on .the human head, a frame, a winding element adapted to be mounted therein, means permitting rotation of the winding element in the frame only in one direction, and means carried by the frame having a pair of non-rotatable friction surfaces adapted to compress a strand of hair therebetween as it is drawn therethrough by said winding element.

7. In an apparatus for waving hair on the human head, a frame, a winding element adapted to be mounted therein, means permitting rotation of the winding element in the frame only in one direction, and means carried by the frame having a pair of non-rotatable friction surfaces adapted to compress a strand of hair therebetween as `it is drawn therethrough by said winding element, said members with the friction surfaces being incapable of movement relative to each other.

8. In an apparatus for waving hair on the human head, a frame comprising a pair of pivotally mounted members provided with friction surfaces, resilient means for locking said friction surfaces into contacting engagement with each other, a winding element adapted to be mounted within said frame and having means permitting rotation of said winding element in the frame only in one direction, said friction surfaces being adapted to resiliently compress a strand of hair throughout its entire width as it is wound on the winding element, the degree of friction between said friction surfaces being such as to permit the hair to be tightly wound on said winding element while, at the same time, leaving the portion of the hair between the scalp and the point at which compression takes place by the friction surfaces unrestrained.

9. A hair waving device, including a winding element on which a strand of hair is adapted to be wound, and a compression device adapted to be applied to the hair between said winding element and the scalp, including a frame adapted to receive and revolvably hold said winding element, and having means thereon for compressing the strand of hair throughout its entire width as it is drawn by the winding element, said compressing means including cooperating non-rotatable members provided with friction surfaces between which said strand of hair is drawn by the winding element, resilient members mounted on said frame and adapted when in one position to permit the separation of said members, and when in another position to press said members towards each other and to resiliently hold the same in contacting engagement with each other.

1U. A hair waving device, including a winding element on which a strand of hair is adapted to be wound, and a compression device adapted to be applied to the hair between said winding element and the scalp, including a frame adapted to receive and revolvably hold said winding element, and having means thereon for compressing the strand of hair throughout its entire width as it is drawn by the winding element, said compressing means including cooperating non-rotatable members provided with friction surfaces between which said strand of hair is drawn by the winding element, resilient members mounted on said frame and adapted when in one position to permit the separation of said members, and when in another position to press said members towards each other and to resiliently hold the same in contacting engagement with each other, the friction surfaces of said members being incapable of movement relative to each other when the same are in locked contacting engagement with each other.

ll. A hair waving device, including a pair of frame members pivotally secured to each other,

each of said frame members comprising a pair of side arms to the free ends of which is secured a connecting rod, upon which is provided a friction surface incapable of movement relative to said connecting rod, means for moving said side arms to the free ends of which is secured a connecting rod, upon which is provided a friction surface incapable of movement relative to rsaid connecting rod, means for moving said frames to bring the friction surfaces thereof into contacting engagement with each other, and resilient means for locking said friction surfaces in such contacting engagement, said side arms of said framer members having means provided therein' for receiving and revolvably holding the 10 Winding element therein.

RENATO LUDOVICI. 

